Jelly, oil, mousse … The new textures in cosmetics are sometimes surprising, but are they more effective?

In recent years, cosmetics has drawn its inspiration from Asia, and in particular in Korea. There, consumers are adept at layering, which consists of layering up to seven or eight products on the skin. Hence the need to apply very light textures. Highly responsive, Korean labs are creating new products to satisfy these women and girls who are keen on skin care and makeup. This is how we have seen arriving on our shelves foundation “cushion”, BB and CC creams, almost liquid treatments and masks of all kinds: in fabric, in single doses, sleeping masks, in the form of jelly …

Do they contain new ingredients?

All this is possible thanks to the use of new raw materials: polymers from the food industry, derived from sugar or natural gelling agents, powders with increased water absorption capacity, oils associated with polymers for an even faster fusion on the skin, silicone substitutes … All these new ingredients are now an integral part of textures and, as Ilana Fartouk concludes: “A nice texture, we will buy it, possibly photograph it, l ‘use it, see its effectiveness, and finally … buy it back. “

What do they bring?

“Consumers want to be surprised by textures that are out of the ordinary. Asians have inspired this trend because they dare to go for the spectacular”, explains Catherine Bidan. Brands must create envy by offering us an “experience” in use. This can go through the packaging, like the kawaï (the cute side), with illustrations, pots in the shape of cupcakes … But also through the textures: liquid cosmetics and very hydrating, such as healing essences; day cream in a compact version (Givenchy); body care in the form of a spray (Le Petit Marseillais, Neutrogena), a mousse (Nivea, Filorga, Garancia) or a souffle (Kiehl’s, Alban Muller).

Products that make you want

With the advent of Instagram, more and more cosmetic brands consider it important that the appearance of the product – and not just its outer packaging – makes you want to buy it and display it in your room. baths, but also to take a picture and share it on social networks! This is how recently appeared on the shelves of shampoos(Essential source from L’Oréal Professionnel), lotions (Moisturizing Lotion from Fresh) and even lipsticks (Winky Lux, Kailijumei) including flowers in suspension. Other products turn out to be surprising once they are applied: masks of unusual colors (charcoal black, clay red …) or those on sheets in the shape of animal heads (otter, penguin, monkey, cat … Pretty Animalz at Masque Bar, for example).

Five treatments that amaze us

1. Stain resistant beads

Each pearl contains the right daily dose of this night cream with niacinamide and vitamin C, shea butter and extracts of silk tree, kiwi and watercress. The result is a brighter, more even complexion.

Dream pearls Uni Skin, Payot, € 67 for 38 g.

2. Lotion mask

Use as a pre-treatment lotion or an express liquid mask, which hydrates, soothes and improves the texture of the skin, making it smoother and softer. It also prepares her to receive the following care.

Divine multi-correction splash effect mask lotion, Darphin, € 80 for 125 ml.

3. Unifying serum

Infused with vitamin C beads, this aqueous gel with pink pepper extract shatters into tiny spheres that optimize the reflection of light on the skin to unify the complexion and blur irregularities.

Aqua porcelain standardizing serum, Galénic, € 60 for 30 ml.

4. Moisturizing foam

Surprisingly, the formula of this dense Chantilly cream mousse contains glycerin and shea butter. And it promises to renew the body hydration gesture.

Nivea Gentle Moisturizing Body Mousse, € 5.20 for 200 ml.

5. Compact cream

Nestled in a compact makeup-style case, this treatment combines moisturizing angelica extract, anti-fatigue vitamin C and a rosy texture, both perfecting and revealing radiance.

Compact, sublimating day cream SPF 15 L’Intemporel blossom, Givenchy, € 56 for 12 g.

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It gently cleanses

Thanks to mild surfactants: more and more often, non-ionics, sugar-based (decyl-glucoside, lauryl-glucoside, coco-glucoside, etc.) or derivatives of fatty alcohols, derived from coconut oils or palm, or a mixture of the two (sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl glutamate).

The advantage: they do not attack the skin and clean it quite well, and they also foam very little.

She does not dehydrate

Because it contains at least one highly hydrating ingredient, glycerin. And, for some, also hyaluronic acid and soothing active ingredients derived from plants (rose, cornflower) and nourishing (honey, cottonseed oil) … In addition, their surfactants are not strippers, and are integrated into the just dose.

She respects the skin

For an effective cleansing action that respects the skin’s balance, the surfactants are organized into micelles. These spherical molecules are made up of two parts of different polarity: one, lipophilic, in strong affinity with fats; the other, hydrophilic, in affinity with water. The first (lipophilic) have the capacity to grip the dirt and trap it, while the second, in affinity with water, entrain this dirt during rinsing.

It protects against pollution

First, because it rids the skin of particles that accumulate there thanks to its cleaning power. But also, because it contains active antioxidants which protect against environmental attacks and free radicals.

In practice

How to choose it? When you like cleaning with water, you have to choose your foam according to your skin type and when you use it.

– In the morning in the shower, opt for a gentle or organic cleansing foam, for sensitive skin, or with AHAs (fruit acids) if you want more radiance.

– In the evening, prefer a foam with make-up removing power, with active “care” which help to quickly reconstitute the skin barrier.

Can we remove make-up from the eyes?

Not always ! If the foam contains too strong surfactants or fruit acids intended for a light exfoliation, it is better to avoid the eye area, which is highly sensitive.